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Naples, You Had Other Plans: A Real-Life Travel Pause

This is part 2 of a 3-part series on my one-month adventure in Mediterranean Europe, September-October of 2025. To start at the beginning of our journey, click here for part 1 - Mediterranean Moments: From Barcelona to Naples.


From the Sea to the City: What Came After the Cruise

In my last blog, I shared the highlights of our Mediterranean cruise—the unforgettable ports, the joy of traveling with dear friends, and all the moments that made our time onboard feel like a celebration. (Read part 1 here)


Boats sail in a harbor by historic buildings at sunset. A cruise ship deck is lined with glass railings and passengers enjoying the view.

We ended that chapter with a smooth disembarkation in Naples, ready to trade sea days for southern Italian flavors. This was a city I’d intentionally chosen as our buffer between the cruise and the immersive foodie tour I was about to host from Rome to Florence to Bologna.


If you’ve followed me for a while, you might remember that I wrote a blog last year about the importance of leaving margin between big experiences. (Revisit that blog here) I was going from a conference to a visit with family in Seattle to an Alaska cruise—and because I got sick in Seattle, I couldn’t taste anything on the cruise. That lesson stuck with me.


So for this trip, I gave us six nights in Naples to rest, reset, and recover if needed—especially because I’m immuno-compromised and very aware of how often illness hits after a cruise.


We had big ideas: a day on the Amalfi Coast, a ferry to Capri or Ischia, maybe even a train to the heel of the boot in Puglia. Pompeii, Herculaneum... all on the “maybe” list.


But those were just that—ideas, and they stayed ideas.


The Taxi Culture: A Good Reminder

When we left the port, it was time to head to our VRBO.


I wasn’t surprised by Naples’ taxi culture—I’d already advised plenty of clients about it. Taxis here are plentiful, but many drivers refuse to use the meter, opting instead to quote inflated flat fees and pressure you to agree before you’ve even sat down. It’s a deeply embedded local practice—and one that can catch unprepared travelers off guard.


Of all the cities we visited on this trip, Naples was by far the most aggressive in this regard. If you're planning a visit, it’s one of those things I make sure my clients are ready for. I often recommend choosing accommodations in walkable neighborhoods or arranging private transfers in advance—especially if mobility or comfort are a priority.


A Warm Welcome and a Bit of Google Translate

Our VRBO host was a bright spot. She was warm, helpful, and incredibly kind throughout our stay.


She didn’t speak much English, and my Italian is minimal—but we made it work with Google Translate and a lot of smiles. The communication might’ve been imperfect, but the hospitality was unmistakable. It’s a small thing, but when a trip doesn’t unfold the way you imagined, a kind host can make all the difference.


A Food Tour That Made It All Worth It

Our one planned outing was a private food tour on our arrival day, before we even got the keys to our apartment. I had booked it with Gennaro, a guide I chose because of his sensitivity to our physical limitations and pacing.


Man in glasses, denim shirt gesturing with hands up in a cafe. Monochrome architectural mural and warm light in the background.

Naples is chaotic, flavorful, and full of character—and we tasted it all. We sampled:

  • Sfogliatella – pastry with a warm filling of ricotta, semolina, candied orange peel, and spice (can be a crunchy or soft pastry - the filling is the part that makes it uniquely neopolitan)

  • Babà al Rum – spongey yeast cakes soaked in sweet rum syrup

  • Deep-fried seafood cones

  • Fried dough in every glorious form



Pizza in a white box on a wooden table, with a blurred hand and a green car in the background. The pizza has a charred crust.

Then came an extra treat: Gennaro invited us into the kitchen of a local pizzeria where we met a pizzaiolo who had inherited the family business and had been making pizza for all 60 years of his life. We watched him stretch and toss dough made with just four ingredients—flour, yeast, salt, and water—then top it and fire it into a 900-degree brick oven. Ninety seconds later, it was pizza perfection.


The Grocery Run That Became the Final Outing

On day three, we made one grocery run to a nearby shop—our final outing in Naples, though we didn’t know it at the time. We picked up a few things to get us through the week: regional salami, some local cheeses, wonderful fresh bread, a couple drinks, and a splurge item—Nutella ice cream. Nutella and hazelnut in general are much bigger in Italy than in the U.S., and this ice cream did not disappoint. It was a small, sweet moment of local life that I’m glad we had.


A Courtyard Spectacle

Yellow building facade with AC units, barred windows, and a balcony with plants. Clothes line holds colorful garments. Urban setting.

Shortly after we hunkered down, the building’s shared courtyard gave us a very different kind of memory. One afternoon, it erupted into a loud shouting match. And I don’t mean a spirited conversation—I mean full-volume yelling across balconies while neighbors watched from their windows like it was live theater.


It wasn’t charming, but it was real. And in its own odd way, it reminded us that travel isn’t always about curated beauty. Sometimes, it’s about being right in the middle of life, wherever it happens.


Getting Ahead of the Strike

While all of this was unfolding, we were keeping an eye on a national transportation strike scheduled for the exact day we had planned to travel to Rome.

We made the call to check out a night early and catch a train before the strike began. It was one of the best decisions we made—and a good reminder that flexibility is everything when you're traveling.


When Everything Slows Down

Around day three in Naples, Chris got sick. Bad. He was knocked out and spent most of the next few days in bed. We had no energy to explore. We laid low, ate from our grocery stash, and watched Netflix in stretchy pants.


I knew what was coming, and on our final full day in Naples, I felt it coming on. I’d planned for this possibility, so I dove into my DayQuil and NyQuil rotation like a pro. I masked up for the train ride to Rome and started praying.


For the first couple nights in Rome, I couldn’t taste anything. I have to admit, I started panicking. This was tragic timing—I was about to lead a foodie tour I’d dreamed about for over a year. But by the time we kicked things off with our group on day 1 in Rome, my taste buds were back.


I truly credit the grace of God and some praying family members back home. That recovery felt like a miracle—and a bit of a reward for all the careful planning that got us there.


What I Took Away

Naples didn’t give us Amalfi or Capri or Pompeii. It gave us a food tour, a grocery run, a courtyard opera, and the chance to rest.


It reminded me that travel isn’t always about the perfect plan. Sometimes, it’s about the pivot. It’s about saying yes to slow days, laughing through the chaos, and celebrating small wins like Nutella ice cream and a pizza you’ll never forget.


And when things don’t go as planned, I don’t give up—I shift gears, lean into grace, and keep showing up. Because even when you're stuck inside in stretchy pants, there's still meaning, story, and flavor to be found.


What’s Next

From Naples, we moved into the main event: our Rome to Florence to Bologna foodie tour—surrounded by friends, new flavors, and the joy of finally being able to taste again.


But that’s a story for next time.


People at a busy train terminal with luggage, under a geometric ceiling. Some use kiosks; signs display information. Bright lighting.

Thinking of Traveling Differently?

If this kind of honest, flexible travel speaks to you—the kind that leaves room for rest and real life—I’d love to help you plan something that fits who you are.


When you're ready, I’m here to help you start.



Naples, You Had Other Plans

Naples, You Had Other Plans

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